Moshi town is a bustling centre at the foot of Kilimanjaro. From here or Marangu most of the tourists head out to climb the mountain. They call it the 'roof' of Africa and this seems fitting because of the massive size of the mountain's base as it rises up gently from the surrounding plain. This is not a mountain like our rockies. The top, at the moment, is still covered with snow. At the peak it is 5896 metres. The gentle rise allows for the amateur climbers but not without casualties. Yesterday our guide told us that a women tourist died on the mountain the day before. He also told us two porters died. The tourist suffered chest pain near the summit and they couldn't revive her while the porters died from dehydration. The Tanzanian officials are trying to manage this by weighing the cargo of the porters to ensure they are not carrying more than they can carry safely and that enough food and water is going for the tourists and the porters. This is not a country with minimum standards. You have to travel with a reputable company or 'getting what you paid for' can be a fatal mistake.

The mountain has been shrouded in cloud for the past 6-7 days. We are in the short rain season. Some are saying there has been more rain here in the short than they usually get in the long rain season. It seems to rain or cloud most days until the clouds opened and we were able to see the mountain yesterday.

Life if not easy for the average Tanzanian. Walking in the village you encounter a mixture of cultures. The ever present mosques call the faithful to prayer on loudspeakers several times a day. There is a Hindu and Sikh temple and the ever present Lutheran and Catholic Church. Everyone belongs to something. The tribes that dominate here are the Chagga and Masai. This is a market town with lots of fresh produce from the farming villages (like Marangu) that line the rich volcanic slopes of Kilimanjaro.

The villages, for the last 160-170 years have been growing crops introduced by Europeans (Germans). They introduced bananas from Asia and then coffee (Arabic) and the two seem to be perfectly compatible. They also grow their market vegetables including potatoes, tomatoes, green pepper, onions and carrots. All the ingredients they need. It is not the safest town to walk at the best of time. Without sidewalks and chaotic traffic you have to keep your wits about you to avoid accidents. All this and street touts who are constantly harassing you to visit a store (for a commission) or go a safari or climb (they get a commission). Everyone has their hand out and the local touts follow you everywhere. Numerous times I have had to engage an escort to get back to the hotel or coffee shop. The hotels have enclosed courtyards and gates to shut the world out for their first world guests. Some or maybe most never venture outside their hotel compound. They see this country through the safari vehicle window or deluxe van to the airport. It is quite different for the volunteers or others who live here and experience life as a local. Even this experience is much better than the life of the Tanzanian who probably does not have a 'house girl or boy' to do the laundry and cleaning. After meeting a number of the local volunteers from Canada, I am really awestruck by their courage and determination. The ones who stay are laid back and accepting of the local culture. There is a different cultural view of property ownership. This translates into what is yours is mine and their shoes may end up on the feet of the house help or their cell phone disappears. Actually caring for electronic equipment or valuables is hard work (bring as little as necessary). Walking through the crowded markets you may have someone trying to get into your backpack so keep it zippered and all easy to grab at the bottom of your bag.

The street sidewalks are crowded with sewing machines and tailors who sit all day sewing clothes, pillows, blankets or anything you may need. There are street vendors with baskets of cigarettes who travel around like portable coffee vendors. Not many street vendors selling hotdogs or hamburgers, but you may buy scoops of peanuts or cashews. Lots of vendors selling cheap wallets and watches. The fumes from buses, trucks and cars can be overwhelming. When the sun is out it is very hot, sticky and dusty. The buses have a conductor who is constantly shouting out for more people. The local have to wait for the bus to over fill before they depart. Not a time sensitive way to travel.