From Zanzibar to Dubai 'The Emerald City?"

It was difficult to leave our last few days spent at the Melia resort in Zanzibar. This resort was recently reopened after being refurbished. It was purchased as an investment by owners from Dubai. They were working very hard to make this upscale resort a success in Tanzania. It was hard to believe we were still in Tanzania. The food was prepared under the direction of European chefs and the food selection was not like anything we had seen previously in Tanzania.  Surprisingly, there were very few guests to enjoy the wonderful hospitality offered by the staff at this hotel. The workers at the hotel were from all over Tanzania and not locals from Zanzibar.

This resort, like most beach resorts in Zanzibar, was subject to the extremely high tides that affect the region. They owned a beach front about a kilometre from the main hotel and you could walk or take a golf cart to the beach. The hotel had cabanas and a restaurant at this beach making it a great place to spend the afternoon. After our safari we really enjoyed the pampering at the Melia. 

Our next stop was Dubai. Just comparing the size and services at Dar es Salaam airport with Dubai International airport sums up the dramatic change in circumstances between Dubai and Tanzania. Dubai's custom and immigration control was the only quasi-service area where actual UAE citizens or Arabs worked. Here they scanned your eye and carefully checked the visas and passports separating passengers by first class, business and our economy class. And, of course, women are separated into another category all together where they are served the least and last. The guys were waiting for us as we waited for the single custom/immigration agent who would scan women. It's a reminder here that it is not a democracy, there is no consistent rule of law and you are really here at the pleasure of the Sheik Maktoum family. While thousands of ex-pats from all around the world live and work here without difficulty or incident there is a subtle change in circumstance that made me uneasy in this enormous, gleaming marble and chrome monolith. 

We started our exploration of the Dubai at the gold and spice souks in the old area of the Diera and Bur Dubai. These guys are tough negotiators and it was difficult to know the actual value of the products. The gold souk is likely 80-90% merchants from India and Pakistan. We chatted with one of the employees who worked for an Indian merchant. The gold is 18-22 carat. I liked a bangle but it was so soft it didn't seem practical to wear. We did find some interesting spices at the spice souk and some frankenscense to burn. We no doubt paid too much but we were learning. 

We took a ride on a dhow along the creek with our guide from Bangladesh. He told us most of the people working along the creek and most of the beautiful wooden boats on the creek were from India. He had lived in Dubai for 12 years. He would point out the boats with goods from ports around India and Malaysia and tell us much of the trade was from this part of the world. It was a beautiful day but the sun was very hot. I could tell our creek guide had had some issues with sun exposure to his skin. I couldn't imagine being in this bright sun everyday. It made sense out of why the Arabs would wear long flowing robes. Everywhere including outside patios had air conditioning. When energy or oil is not scarce or an expensive commodity, air conditioning an outside patio when it is 40C is still reasonable. Curiously, that morning's headlines of the local Gulf newspaper had an article about how third world countries wanted and were entitled to develop nuclear power sources. They probably don't need them in Dubai and really could not manage nuclear facilities in Tanzania. 

We decided to go with the culture of Dubai and visit the malls. Our evening host at the hotel said everyone went to the mall and that was his only suggestion for dinner. So we took the Metro to the Emirates Mall to see the ski hill and have dinner. This is really a showcase for transportation systems. Again the contrast with Tanzanian transport for the average person by overcrowded and downright dangerous dalla dalla vans, was striking. Our Kenyan morning hostess at the hotel told us she made 3x her Kenyan salary in Dubai and the living accommodation for staff is essentially free. This lifestyle change attracts the best educated and healthiest workers from around the Asia and Africa and even North America. Everything is very safe, clean and efficient. 

Both the Emirates and Dubai mall were incredible with all the latest designer stores and upscale merchandise. As we passed the metro stop called 'The World Trade Centre' it seemed Dubai had become the new New York of the world. We were in Dubai during their aviation show and newspapers were reporting billions of dollars worth of contracts being negotiated for jumbo jets and airbuses. All the nationals of the western world were well represented at this trade show. When we arrived late at the airport the night before, I was redirected by a body guard for what must have been a Saudi prince or Sheik with a falcon strapped to his arm who had come in late by private jet to no doubt attend this show. There is so much money from oil that anything is possible. 

Ngorongoro 'The Garden of Eden'

Ngorongoro is the second largest caldera or crater in the world and at the Uldavai Gorge there is fossil evidence of hominoid life in this region for 3 million years. Man's oldest footsteps were discovered not far from here and our local guide described it as the original Garden of Eden.

 From the rim there is only one road up and one road down. When I asked how the many migrating herds of animals that dwell in the crater get in and out our guide said they 'have their ways'.  On the south east is the Great Rift Valley and volcanic mountains surround the area on the north. We pitched our tent on a slope overlooking the crater and hoped for a good nights sleep. This area is 

home to the Maasai who were moved out of the Serengeti to Ngongoro in recent years. Our campsite was very close to the small Maasai village that looked much like a frontier town in the old west. We would head down into the crater early in the morning for out game drive and then head back to Arusha. Our Maasai guards could be relied on to keep the animals out of camp tonight. 

The park ranger manning the road into the crater told me it was always very windy on the rim. We had cold wet wind for most of the night tugging at the tent. The temperature was cool despite the fact that we were only a few degrees from the equator. 

The next morning we headed down into the crater. At one end close to the entrance there is a forested area with lots of baboons, warthogs and zebra. The zebra in particular fearlessly cross back and forth across the dirt road. One zebra kept showing us his teeth (a sign of dominance). Baby warthogs and families of jackals were spotted, but the illusive black rhino was too far from the road to photograph. This is one of the few remaining areas with rhinos. We did see one among the buffalo and the wildebeest. 

The lions were plentiful in the crater where they had a constant food source. Here groups of males seem to lolly gag in the grass without a care in the world even though we were only a few feet away.

Lions That Roar in the Night

We moved on to the northwest nether regions of the Serengeti for our second night in the park. This was an area called Lobo. It reminded me of the rocks and rough territory from the lion king movie. The lions perched on high rocks and the migration was starting to slow down. We passed a number of streams with crocodiles sunning themselves on the muddy banks.

The weather cooled as we drove to higher ground. This night we camped in Lobo but unlike the Pimbi camp from the pervious night we appeared to be the only campers. Our driver and cook assured us others would come and that no lions would be around our camp. We set up the tent in the open very near a group of kicking buffalo with the curled horns. Our driver, Lawrence, said they could be dangerous but they just chewed and stared at us as we helped unload the land cruiser and our cook, Dubay, started to make his magical meals with minimal equipment and supplies.

This was by far the most isolated and solitary place. I was somewhat concerned with the baboons that appeared plentiful as we we dropped our companions off at the their lodge. The tent was set up and we were waiting for dinner as the sun was setting and the rain clouds appeared. We debated moving the tent to the dining shelter which it appeared we had to ourselves as no other campers arrived. Our driver/guide  said no rangers would be at the site, but again assured us it was safe.

Finally we moved the tent into the dining area when the light rain started. Two travellers from Cape Town arrived driving a newly imported and modified RV camper which they planned to stay in for the night. We invited them to join us for dinner and as the rain ended set our table up next to the buffalo. We enjoyed a terrific pasta dinner and some bottles of wine that we brought with our guests. They were both of German descent but had lived and travelled extensively. The park ranger dropped by to check our passes and then after sitting around the campfire for an hour went to bed. We didn't sleep for long though because a lion decided to join us for the night. He sat under the big tree where our table was set up for night and roared every 15 minutes for the entire night. It was deafening. We were so glad to be in the enclosure. We could have been his dinner if we stayed in the tent unprotected. Our driver and chef were in the wired enclosure used by the chefs so we all had protection for the night but I couldn't wait for the sun to come up in the morning. I was sure the door to our enclosure had been pushed open and the wild animals were all around our tent. The wind had come up and the tent walls kept moving but no lions were to be seen in the morning. We saw vultures circling nearby, like the hyena they were waiting for their turn to feed.  The hungry lions found something to eat that morning.

We  continued on our travels after an early morning game drive. Our exciting night took a toll and we really found the drive back to Ngorongoro challenging. Our next day included a drive in the crater. We were looking forward to this as we headed back to the savannah grasslands.

Safari (Serengeti - The Masai and Great Migration)

The second day in the Serengeti led us through the Ngorongoro caldera (crater), but we were just passing through today and saving exploration of the crater for our last day. The landscape near the crater continues to be very dry. On the rim of the crater it is more lush and they clearly get more rain. Sadly, we spotted a safari land rover crushed that had lost their brakes and rolled down the side of the crater. We were told a number of people lost their lives. Unlike at home, the wrecks of cars and buses seem to stay where they are without the equipment and know-how to remove the wrecks. We saw this with a bus crash on our drive to Dar es Salaam from Arusha. A bus had crashed and burned killing over 20 people and their belongings were being picked over when we went by a week later. We were very happy to have hired a private car and driver for the journey. We started to see vultures, hyena and jackals as we travelled further into the park. The migration is still on in the Serengeti. 

On our approach to the Serengeti we visited one of the Maasai villages that dot the landscape around Ngorongoro. The villages are surrounded by either a picketed fence or thick acacia thorn bushes to keep the wild animals out. The houses are built in the traditional way with mud and cow manure over thin branches of acacia. I was told they simply apply more manure when it rains. At the time of our visit the village elders we meeting to discuss where they would take their cattle herd because it was very dry and they had to move some of their cattle. The Maasai continue to live very traditionally on a diet of cows milk, blood and meat. They don't eat vegetables. This is a very interesting culture that endures considerable hardship to continue their traditional lifestyle. 

The villagers were making some extra money by welcoming the tourists for a tour of their village. This secondary income helped pay for their government school fees and a kindergarten they started. They also  sold interesting crafts they created out of beads and seeds. The hut I visited had a hide bed and a few recycled pans. They cooked and heated with charcoal they made from the local woods. The teenager who showed us around (he was a male as the women are without property rights and a voice in this social system), had ambitions to go to medical school and learn western medicine. I am told by other Tanzanians that the Maasai are very bright and do very well in school. The village was led by a chief who had 12 wives. The village pool together to put on a dance when you arrive and then you are invited to join the groups. None of the women could communicate in English but we shared a moment. They dress in bright colours to repel the 'wild things'. Very interesting their choice of plaids for their clothing. Inside their huts are very simple with only a few cooking utensils. The men wear recycled tires fashioned into a thong type sandal. The women wear elaborate neck pieces and dance to rhythmic sing-song chanting. I was jumping up and down thinking they were jumping, but one of the ladies reached over and touched my shoulder to indicate only the shoulders go up and down. Apparently the men jump up and down but not the women. What must they think of outsiders?

As we travelled further north and west towards the border with Kenya we started to see the herds of wildebeest and the lazy lions who were enjoying the migration. It's interesting to observe in nature the symbiotic relationships between the animals. The wildebeest invariably were being led by the zebra. The zebra had better eyesight and were a warning system for them and the wildebeest would invariably be eaten before a zebra. On the backs of the zebra and hippos were birds that enjoyed the ticks, bug and flies that attacked the animals. And the baboons were around all the campsites waiting for cars to be left unattended. We were told by our Tanzanian guides that they waited for the black guides to go to approach the table or vehicle knowing that white people would not be a threat to them.  The ever present lions were sleeping during the day on rocks or in the deep grasses. We saw a number of 'lounging leopards' hanging from the trees and a future cheetah with their rounded ears sitting in the tall grass waiting for an unsuspecting prey. At one point a leopard mother with two cubs was trapped under a log by a group of baboons who kept approaching waiting to take one of the leopard cubs. The mother managed to out wait the baboons who moved on and we later saw her trying to hastily teach her cubs to climb the trees. This is a tough environment to survive even for the big predators. 

Safari Tarangire (Elephants and Baobab)

Mike squinting in the heat

Our first day of safari we travel from Moshi to Arusha and west to the national parks. The lush green gardens around Arusha soon give way to dry desert like conditions into the north western regions that lead to the Serengeti. We pass through a number of small Maasai villages leading to the northern safari circuit. Our destination is Tarangire National Park. At this time of year the short rain has ended and the waterways are getting close to dry. We see large herds of elephants everywhere. We also see ostrich and zebras and few giraffe. The elephants are in groups and they are not afraid of the safari vehicles but we are well aware of their size and power. The elephants topple trees to consume their daily intake. These animals are eating machines. There are a number of young babies in the groups who stick very close to their mother and are well protected by the herd. 

The animals roam freely around the park. There do not appear to be many predators evident. The wildebeest have moved on and elephants are everywhere. 

This park has a large number of ancient Baobab trees. These trees are hundreds of years old. The diameter indicates the age of the tree. Although Christianity and Islam are the declared practice, a number of Tanzanians have told us that people still consider this tree as sacred and may pray or seek advice from the Baobab. This tree also has a number of medicinal purposes in traditional medicines practised by the Maasai and witch doctors.

An older elephant

Baobab Tree

Bagamoyo

Bagamoyo is considered a heritage centre for Tanzania and trade in east Africa. The name in Kiswahili means 'crush down your heart' referring to the harsh reality of the slave trade in east Africa. I headed out to visit this coastal town 47 km north of Dar es Salaam with a new friend from Canada, Deb Arnold, along with a driver and guide. The road to Bagamoyo from Dar es Salaam appears to be under construction but a priority project. The current president is from the region. In the late 18th and early 19th century this town was the hub of activity for trade in East Africa. Long before, Arab traders from Oman settled this area of east Africa and plied the slave trade. To this day, Bagamoyo is predominately Islamic in culture. The Kaole ruins are between Dar and Bagamoyo on what was the site of a main ocean port between the 13th and 16th centuries. This was an ancient Shirazi settlement with two mosques and over 30 tombs. Some of the artifacts are Chinese which indicates trade routes were extensive with the far east. Mangroves have completely covered what was the harbour or port and the beach is almost inaccessible. Tidal changes have been identified as the reason for this change. 

At the Kaole Ruins

Our guide explains that Bagamoyo was the epicentre for the slave trade in east Africa. Oman traders used this area to transport slaves from the interior of east Africa. The slaves from east Africa were largely sent to Arab countries and islands in the Indian ocean. There is a tomb that is known as the lover's tomb as the couple died together on the ocean during a storm. 

Our guide also had us dip in the centuries old well for water to ensure good fortune in our life and travels. 

We travelled on to visit the |Old Fort originally built by Indian traders and later Arab traders. It was fortified by the Germans who made it their centre and capital for trade in east Africa. In addition to the ivory, ebony, and other natural resources that passed through this port town, about 50,000 slaves a year were transported from Bagamoyo to Zanzibar for the slave market. 

The early explorers including Henry Morton Stanley and David Livingstone began and ended their explorations into the interior from here. The French missionaries established 'Freedom Village' here for ransomed slaves. They established the Holy Ghost Mission which has a museum and artifacts from the early missionaries. The mango lined street leading to the mission has a serene feel and the church is brightly painted with scenes of the holy spirit.  

Selous Safari (cont'd)

Although Selous is much further from the equator than the Kilimanjaro towns, the weather seemed much hotter. The short rainy season should be in full swing but we saw no rain during our trip. Some of the landscape showed signs of greening up from earlier rain. The lakes and river flow all year in Selous so there is no migration. The animals do make their way to the water either in the morning or the evening. The impala stand with their hind legs firmly planted and lean as far forward as they can to drink  in order to be ready for an attack.

As we approached the water's edge we spotted a very majestic looking male lion approximately 30 meters from the water. He was relaxing in the shade of a tree no doubt waiting for some unsuspecting creature to venture close.

We were able to get very close to the lion and he just ignored the vehicle. He looked very peaceful sitting in the shade of the tree.

As we drove on we saw crowds of zebra, giraffe, kudus and the ever present impalas. These creatures all have survival strategies that keep them out of harms way and allow for survival of the species. Nestor, our guide, was able to give us details for all of the animals. Basically, the species has an alpha male of female system that ensures only the largest and strongest of the species survives. Many of the species work together. The zebras rely on the wildebeest to go first to the watering hole so that a lion will more likely kill a wildebeest. Harsh as it seems, nature has a balance that culls the old, the sick and the weak. The lion or crocodile targets the weakest but when the lion is old or injured they too fall victim to starvation. The female lion is the hunter and she typically feeds the male. We came across a threesome of lions with two females and one male. Ernest thought the pair had been mating and the third was along for the ride. Perhaps unlike the proverbial cat fight theory, the female lions, as described by our guide, share their mate and will often care for each other's young including feeding of the cubs while the other female hunts for the pride.

Our guide says the lions are generous and leave their kill when they have had enough, this feeds the less capable while the leopards are greedy and take their kill in the tree with them and will not share even when they are full.  So far we have not seen a leopard but hope to see one soon.

The elephants stay out of range of the land rover so we have to watch them from afar. This is also the case for the water buffalo who who run from the vehicle. In Selous the Tanzanian government allows hunting safaris and this may explain the fear.

The elephants are always close by here in Selous. We spent the next morning on a walking safari with a  local tribesman and an armed ranger. The local was able to demonstrate his hunting and trapping skills with low tech hatchet and sisal twine. He created a very strong trap for guinea fowl or small animals that his people have trapped for centuries.

Curiously, this guide had many uses for elephant dung including smoking it. He grabbed a dead leaf off a tree and rolled in with elephant dung and lit up. He said it enhanced his courage, showed him the wind direction and the elephants didn't like it so they would go the other way. We seem to spend a lot of time trying to get out of their way on this walk. The  elephants are not popular with the villagers due to their raiding behaviours. The elephants live as long as 65 years in the wild and gradually lose their ability to chew the plants they consume which ultimately leads to their physical decline and death. Our native guide told us the baboon and giraffe males would develop sexual relationships with each other if they were ousted by alpha males from the group. He was a very lively and entertaining guide (perhaps the elephant shit really works).